With just over 2 weeks till I set off on my epic (ðð) walk along the Northumbrian coast path and Hadrian’s Wall, I decided it was time for another test of my mettle.
I had already scheduled a walk into my diary for Monday 16th; the penultimate stage of the north-east section of the Saxon Shore Way, from Rainham to Rochester, so it was an easy decision to take Pepe along, fully loaded except for water supply, and check out how we got along.
We had a brilliant day, it was overcast and cool (I even wore a cardigan), perfect for walking but not so fantastic for photos.
I headed back to where I left off a few weeks ago, and not finding any signs to direct me, and considering it’s a residential area, I decided to just follow my nose and my intuition. After all, it’s a ‘shore’ walk, and the general direction (useful) is along the shore heading north/east…ðĪŠðĪŠ


I found the first sign 5 kms in, pleased to note I was on the right path.


I discovered what a teasel is…I’ve seen this fascinating little flowers/plants all over the place but hadn’t idea what they were…now I know ð

I came across a funfair and was reminded of one of the most terrifying fairground rides of my life…I took my daughter (8 years old) and sister on one of these many years ago in South Africa. It went wayyyy higher than I knew and she nearly slipped off the seat and under the rail. O was holding onto her and my handbag that contained my whole month’s salary in cash. ðģðģ


In all it was a very successful walk, I frequently forgot Pepe was on my back..ergo, its comfortable and not too heavy, which was my main goal – how comfortable will it be? Fortunately I’m now aware of those little straps that work loose, so checked them every time I stopped for a break (every 5 kms) and pleased to say the corner of the bag didn’t dig a hole in my hip like it did on the final stages of the Pilgrim’s Way.
Enroute is an island near Chatham; St Mary’s island that I simply had to visit; its there, how could I not? And for good measure, and totally unnecessarily, I walked virtually the whole perimeter thereby adding over 2.5 hours and 4.42kms to my journey ðð But now I can add that to Project 101…another island done and dusted. Saw a gorgeous sculpture




I did however find the history of how the island came to being rather disturbing. Built on the backs of 19th century convict labour from desolate Marsh wasteland, the convicts lived on rotting hulks on the shore and were marched daily, 1000 strong chained together, to work on building the island. Ghoulish history.
So, I had a very comfortable 22.46km walk on Monday with very little discomfort except for the usual spots, which I’ll resolve with fleece.
But the weight is good and as with the Camino and Pilgrim’s Way, I mostly forgot it was there. Although I was tired without doubt from 16km onwards, and ready for bed.

I slowed down quite a lot in the last 6kms.



Feet no worse than usual, in fact, better than usual in recovery, hardly any pain in my heel, just a couple of twinges and no blisters. My 2 toes on my left foot as usual were red and sore, which is totally bizarre since there’s loads of space in the front of the shoe and no obstruction. My right foot toes never have the same issue… weird ðĨīðĨī
So all good. Ready to go 1st September. I even got to test my poncho. Conclusion: it kept the rain out = waterproof. But…my arms got wet coz the sleeves are so short, and I’ll need to finesse the hood so it stays snug around my face instead of either covering my eyes, or blowing off the back of my head ðð
In all a pleasing day.
I will of course give this stage of the Saxon Shore Way a proper write up when I do those articles, but I’m well pleased with my progress so far.



I’m with you on starting to get tired from 16km onwards … we’ve just finished our Heuningvlei Trail in the Cederberg Mountains. It was 23.1km in total, but from 18km I was ready to call it a day – though, our bodies are not really conditioned at the moment for such long walks (up and down, up and down, over big boulders and loose rocks).
But I believe you actually get walking fit while doing the long distance walk itself … and you sound more than ready to me!!
Yes, it’s interesting that over the years it’s become very apparent what my limits are. I can of course keep going, but I getðĒðĒðĒ & ððð the further I go..by 24kms I’m ready to just lie down and never move again ðĨīðĨī by 28kms…I won’t even go there ððð but somehow I drag myself on, but only if I absolutely HAVE to.
My longest day this time around is 26kms through necessity, excluding diversions to explore of course ð Fortunately most of my days on Hadrian’s Wall are relatively short and I’m going to make the most of baggage forwarding where I can.
But yes, I agree, I do seem to get more fit as I go…I feel ready, now its just keeping my legs up to speed (ð) till the 1st…
… remember that eventually the ðĒ and ð get where they want to be ð .
ððð they do, and so far I’ve not needed to sleep under the stars…which would be nice, but under the right conditions…ð